Sometimes progress and change can bring about unforeseen and unexpected circumstances. This was true for coffee grown in the southern region of Kerela on India’s southwestern Malabar coast. India has a long history of producing fine quality coffee. Coffee from the Malabar coast had become famous in the coffee drinking world of Europe and the USA for its rich very mellow flavour and hint of spice.

But in the late 1800’s there was an outcry from coffee drinkers in Europe and the USA, The Malabar coffee had lost its distinctive taste. Gone was that special deep flavour for which it had become famous. Communications must have gone back and forth between the merchants and the producers. What had happened, why was the flavour disappointing? Eventually it was realised that the cause of the problem was the method of transportation, the coming of steam ships.

Formerly coffee had been exported in sailing ships made of wood. The sacks were packed tight into the holds and during the long sea voyages, which could take as much as six months or more, the monsoon winds, rain and contrasting temperatures as the coffee moved from tropical to more temperate climates brought about dramatic changes to the coffee. In appearance the beans changed from a bright green to a pale yellow. More significant was the effect on the flavour, the natural acidity was much reduced, replaced by a deep smooth and slightly spicy flavour.

The coming of the steam ship had radically cut the journey time between export and delivery. The coffee was better protected from the elements, but it no longer had the famous Malabar flavour.

The Malabar coffee producers came up with an answer. They reproduced the former natural effects of the journey by inventing a procedure which came to be known as Monsooning.

Monsooned Malabar coffee is picked and spread out in specially constructed warehouses. Buildings are open sided, the beans are raked and turned regularly and then loosely packed in sacks and stacked so that the monsoon winds can blow through the coffee. This procedure continues for about seven weeks, the coffee beans are regularly repacked until they have changed colour. Then samples are roasted and cupped to ascertain they have developed the traditional flavour for which they are famous. The problem was solved for the nineteenth century coffee lovers and the coffee became known as Malabar Monsooned.

We dark roast our Malabar Moonsooned to enhance and develop its smooth and gentle acidity. To be able to roast coffee in this way is a skill developed and perfected by my father and passed down through generations and continued in our business today. The flavour notes of Malabar Monsooned are burnt sugar, walnut and dark chocolate with an underlying spice.

It prepares best in filters and cafetieres. It makes a fine finish to a dinner, complementing rich flavours, red wine and a rich pudding.

I hope the story of this unusual coffee will add to your enjoyment as you discover its distinctive character. Perhaps it will become one of your favourites?

Sincerely

Tony Higgins